Trad climbing nuts vs hexes review. An Insulator for Folks on the Move .
Trad climbing nuts vs hexes review. An Insulator for Folks on the Move .
- Trad climbing nuts vs hexes review. Jan 8, 2024 · I started trad climbing during the pandemic, the advice is now split between 'official' articles recommending hexes and people commenting 'don't waste money on hexes, you'll end up buying cams anyway'. Sep 13, 2022 · When placing trad protection in rock climbing, get in the habit of mentally rating your placements. This 'hexes' article is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. Aug 8, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . These will give you a good range of sizes. They are also lighter than the equivalent sized cam. Sending a hard sport climb is satisfying, but trad climbing offers a feeling of accomplishment unmatched by clipping bolts. Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. These are “standard” sizes to look for when first building your rack. Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. Trad climbing requires a large and somewhat complex set of gear that’s used instead of bolts to stop a fall. In this update, we purchased 7 of Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome [1]. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them. Mar 8, 2017 · Passive protection devices—nuts / stoppers, hexes, and tricams— form the basis of any trad climber’s gear rack. Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing involves a wide array of gear, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe. Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments Oct 28, 2016 · From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. I first received this advice from Jez at JB Mountain Skills. Look at videos of 5. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Jun 11, 2025 · We’ll delve into detailed reviews of top-rated nuts, hexes, and tricams, explore the pros and cons of each, and offer practical tips for choosing the right sizes and styles for your climbing needs. Apr 20, 2023 · Trad climbing, short for “traditional climbing,” is a style of climbing that involves placing removable protection such as nuts, cams, and hexes into cracks and other features in the rock to protect against falls. 6. The protection is then removed by the second climber as they ascend, leaving the rock in its natural state. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we ha Trad climbing opens the door to the adventure of starting a climb well before the sun comes up and stumbling back to the car way after the sun goes down. May 29, 2020 · Lead Climbing vs. . They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. This is part one of our series, Learn to Climb Trad: A Complete Beginner’s Guide. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. An Insulator for Folks on the Move Step 1 When you spot a suitable constriction, grab your rack of nuts and try a few that are most likely to fit. 12 and up trad routesnot so many hexes there. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. Hexes are cheaper than cams, cams can "walk" hexes don't, they are lighter than a cam and can take a beating especially if you do chimney climbs alot. DMM Wales are the only manufacturer of rock climbing and industrial access gear based in the UK -- I make videos for them to show off the features and great Learning to properly place protection is an essential skill as you progress as a trad climber. 5” for six-sided hexes. 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. But I can think of many photos and videos of hardcore mixed routes, and often it appears that the climber has a roughly equal number of cams and hexes on their harness. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. Toproping. They have strengths and weaknesses, and I wouldn't argue that they're really an acceptable replacement for cams in modern trad climbing. These pieces are relatively inexpensive because they feature no moving parts. There are many different types of trad pro, including cams, nuts, hexes, Tricams, Ballnuts and more. sh/wideboyz092115 mistakes when trad climbing which are all The only crushers I see carrying hexes are generally climbing mixed routes. The main advantage of hexes is they will work in dirty, wet or icy cracks where cams are likely to slide out. Feb 25, 2021 · The Future of Sport Climbing vs Trad Climbing. The common denominator is that they are removable, as opposed to fixed gear that is permanently secured to the rock (such as bolts). Whether you’re a seasoned trad climber or just starting out, this comprehensive buying guide will empower you to make informed decisions and Oct 19, 2021 · They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. For most of us starting out on easy trad climbs, hexes are usually amongst the first bits of gear we purchase and use. Assess the taper and curve of the crack and the quality of the rock. This is different from toproping, where the rope is pre-hung at the top of the route. 25” wide—and go up to about 1. Sep 22, 2009 · British climbers appear to have a rather complex relationship with hexes. Those early adventures are accompanied by the traditional cow-bell clanging of these unpretentious pieces of equipment. That said, folks climbed a lot on nuts, hexes, and tricams before modern camming devices were invented. Most trad climbing involves lead climbing, in which the rope starts at the bottom of the climb with the climber. The document has moved here. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco N uts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams . A typical trad rack will contain 10-12 nuts and maybe one or two mid-size hexes. . Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. I usually bring a few hexes with me if I read in the guide book that they are helpful but I like the versatility of a cam more. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. Whether for trad or sport, the improved safety of technical climbing gear through the years has inspired more people to enjoy rock climbing. We have been climbing for a while, guiding professionally For large cracks they are great. However, they do have advantages over cams in certain situations. B… Jun 4, 2025 · Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. Moved Permanently. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than plugging Feb 20, 2021 · In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. NEMO Dagger OSMO 3 Tent Review. ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. I know nothing about these in general, but tricam-type designs are totally valid protection. It’s also allowed climbers to push the boundaries of possibility and attempt free climbing routes with minimal trad gear placements. In his YouTube video, “How to place and judge trad climbing gear including nuts, hexes, and cams,” Jez explains his own system for rating trad gear placements. Nut and Hexes Ranging in size from the thickness of a matchstick to the size of your clenched fist, nuts (also called chocks, wires or stoppers) and hexes are inexpensive pieces of trad protection. Learn how to use nuts and hexes. This The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl. oepyv fybjnj wpqdmf klvl vynz mlyi gfquedf jlpu mjvo zxrl